Come Out of Your Shellfish

May 6, 2011

When I was a kid, shellfish scared me. I mean, these denizens of the ocean aren’t the prettiest things to look at. Mom was smart, though. She removed the delectable meat from her crabs, lobsters and mussels and created the most awesome dishes with them. I got over my fear, eventually, and began to tackle critters such as king crab legs bravely. I’ve been a fan ever since.

The overwhelming quality of shellfish to me is its sweetness. I love fish to begin with. However, shellfish offers a sweet depth of flavor that finned seafood doesn’t quite match. Even the shells are delicious. No, not to eat (with the exception of soft shell crabs, of course), but added to stocks. Briny, deep and rich.

My favorite shellfish would have to be lobster. Expensive tastes this guy has! Boiled, steamed, broiled, grilled – however you cook it, the integrity of the succulent meat always remains uncompromised. Mom used to mix the lobster roe with Italian flavored breadcrumb and stuff the cavity of those soon-to-be red beauties, which were then broiled. She offered a garlic-butter dipping sauce, and I was in heaven. Yes, whether it’s simmered in a bisque or mixed with mayonnaise and stuffed in a bun, lobster is always OK with me.

That being said, my love of shellfish extends to just about any variety. Have you ever tried blue crabs in garlic and beer sauce? Easy to prepare. I sauté garlic in olive oil for a bit, then add my blue crabs with a generous sprinkling of oregano. When the pot is back to a sizzle, I pour in a can of lager beer, cover, and simmer until the crabs are done. Really fantastic.

Or how about ceviche? Although it can be prepared with just about any seafood, I prefer scallops. The acid in the citrus juice “cooks” the scallops, leaving them tender and delicious. It’s wonderful.

I’m just beginning. During the summer months, I love to do Shellfish Boils. Steamers (clams), mussels, crabs, shrimp, you name it. I throw them all in a gigantic pot, with some water on the bottom (you’re really steaming, not boiling.) You can season however you like. I always use Old Bay. Throw in some baby potatoes, corn on the cob and a few pieces of chorizo sausage, and you have a real feast on your hands – literally, because forks on not allowed.

Being a shellfish maniac, I really love stuffed shrimp. After all, you’re getting two shellfish flavors for the price of one. Delicate lump crabmeat mixed with cracker meal, herbs and spices – generously stuffed into butterflied jumbo shrimp. Pop ‘em in the broiler with a drizzling of melted butter and, I mean, how can you go wrong?

I’m kind of rambling here, as I’m wont to do when it comes to food. Nevertheless, I must ask if you go crazy at those buffets that offer king crab legs. I do. If it’s a really good buffet, there are some jumbo boiled shrimp in the offing as well, in their shell. Or how about raw bars? How many raw clams and oysters can you eat in one sitting? A squeeze lemon, or hot sauce, or both? Yes, a bit expensive, but worth every penny.

Coming off of Lent, I’m surprised at how hungry I’m making myself talking about all this shellfish. Puts me in mind for some linguini with white clam sauce, followed by sautéed soft shell crabs. They’re in season, you know. But then again, shellfish is always in season when you sport a healthy appetite.

The Ribaudo Group

Fresh Fruited Holidays

May 6, 2011

I love the Spring Holiday season. Whether I’m seated a friend’s Seder dinner for Passover, or my family’s Easter celebration, there’s a sense of renewal and rebirth that only this time of year can offer. Gastronomically speaking, that inevitably spells fresh fruit to me.

When invited to Passover dinners, I’m very conscious of what’s Kosher and what’s not. So to play it safe I bring a nice Kosher wine as well as a fresh fruit tray. Everyone loves the freshness of fruit at the end of the meal, before coffee and desserts are served. As for the Easter menu at my Mom’s home, we also include fruit in the offing. Fruit is fresh and colorful…very much like Easter itself. And we find interesting ways to incorporate it into our recipes.

As I mentioned in our last blog, ham is very often featured as the centerpiece of the Easter spread. And nothing complements it better than fruit. My Mom does a great pineapple in butter rum sauce, studded with plump raisins. She discovered it at a diner, of all places. They wouldn’t offer her the recipe, so she deconstructed it on her own and came up with something spectacular. It’s basically a Bananas Foster, except with pineapple. Really nice ladled over slices of smoky ham.

I, on the other hand, take pineapple rings and grill them on the backyard barbecue. Simple, really. Just coat the fresh rings with sugar and grill until there’s a nice caramelization happening. It’s usually the first “grill” of the season, which excites me because it sort of ushers in warm weather celebrations for us all. A delectable counterfoil to the saltiness of the ham.

Pineapple is just the beginning of our fruit forays for the Holiday. Instead of mint jelly for my lamb, I opt for beautiful compote of fresh fruits. While some fruits are not really in their season, there are still plenty of choices out there. Mango, for instance. You may also want to investigate a dried fruit compote recipe, which is actually a Passover favorite for many families. I really like what fruit does for lamb. And for those mint and lamb lovers, you may include a few sprigs as you prepare your compote.

Of course, your holiday salad can incorporate any number of fresh fruits. I like the taste of fresh strawberries or raspberries and feta cheese in my salad. I dress it with olive oil and lemon juice. Greek inspired, I find this salad complements my lamb in a gyro sort of way. Orange slices, accompanied by toasted almond slivers, is another salad favorite of mine. I usually go Asian and dress this one with sesame oil and rice vinegar. Of course, fresh green grapes in your salad are always a welcome sight. An interesting tartness balances out the other ingredients well. Really, there’s no end to the fruit and salad possibilities.

Now on to the holiday finale. In true Italian fashion, we serve fresh fruit before coffee and pastries and the like. We will often offer appropriate cheeses and nuts as well. When desserts do arrive, there is the Pizza di Grano, of course (an Italian cheesecake with wheat berries). However, there are often fruit pies to be found as well. Blueberry, strawberry and cherry are my preferred choices. I must admit, though, that fresh fruit tarts are really what I long for this time of year. Depending on what looks good at your fruit stand, you can let your culinary imagination run rampant here. Be creative, make lovely designs and have a ball.

Fruit makes it lively. That’s my motto. Just what we all need this time of year, as hints of milder, longer days and happy celebrations are all around us. After a long winter, we’ve all earned it. Enjoy!

The Ribaudo Group

Everyone’s a Ham

May 6, 2011

With Easter fast approaching, many of us are planning the big spread. A couple of blogs back I spoke about my love affair with lamb. That’s always been the holiday staple in my home this time of year. I’d be remiss, however, if I didn’t extol the virtues of the ever popular ham. It also makes an appearance on so many an Easter dining table. In fact, it almost always seems to be present at any festive holiday meal in America. Probably because it’s easy to prepare and it just tastes so good!

When I discuss ham with people my age (over 30 is all I’m admitting to) almost everyone has a similar early experience. Many of us were served the ones that come from those oversized tin cans. Opening them was a perilous job which my Mom would only entrust to my Dad. I believe we called them Polish hams in our home. I don’t know that it really made sense to do so. I do know that they were usually donned with pineapple rings and maraschino cherries before being popped in the oven to warm through. They were tasty, especially in the following day’s lunch boxes – nestled between two slices of bread with copious amounts of mustard, of course.

The canned variety doesn’t find its way to my table anymore. I, as most of my fellow foodies, have graduated to more lofty ham aspirations. There are all sorts of varieties from which to choose – boneless, bone-in…smoked, sugar-cured…whole, butt, shank, spiral. You name it, it’s out there and pre-cooked or cured for your convenience. My personal favorites are the smoky varieties. (Smithfield, yum!) Bone-in, of course. I mean, who doesn’t look forward to pea soup simmered with a ham bone? The bone is a must for this home chef.

What’s interesting to me is that although in its purest form ham is just a cured roast, there are so many delectable ways to enhance it. I like my ham studded with cloves. Call me a purist, but it just works. And I prefer it glazed with a sweet concoction. A nice counterpart to the saltiness of the meat.

I don’t stop there, though. Fruit and ham go together like love and marriage. (Come on, you know it’s true!) And although pineapple and ham make a heavenly pair, I will often complement mine with peaches sautéed in butter and kissed with a bit of rum. Over the top for you? Well, any fruit compote will do, really. I would stay away from pears and apples for Easter, though. Too autumnal.

Now, I must admit that my favorite uses for ham fall in the leftovers department. I adore it fried up with eggs the following morning. Divine. Sliced and pressed in a panini with brie for lunch. Irresistible. Cubed in dinner time soups, stews and salads. Doesn’t get any better. Yes, I can eat ham all day long. My mouth may be dry at midnight, but I’m fully sated.

You know, I’ve just decided to serve ham along with the leg of lamb at my Easter celebration. I’m hoping that all of the lamb goes, and there’s plenty of ham left over. It’ll be a salty Monday…and I’m going to enjoy every bit of it.

The Ribaudo Group

The Cheescake Diet

May 6, 2011

Why is it that every time I’m on a diet, someone puts a cheesecake on the table? A conspiracy, I tell you! Really, I’m only a mortal human being. There’s just so much I can resist. You know where this is leading, I’m sure. Of course, my will power caves in and I end up with a big slab of it on my plate, waiting for consumption. And consume I do. But that’s what cheesecake is about. Total indulgence.

Cheesecake isn’t really a cake, in my estimation. It’s more like a really thick cheese custard. So a misnomer is about the only negative thing I can say here since I don’t know anyone who doesn’t adore it. No wonder. Whoever thought of combining fresh cream cheese, sour cream, eggs and sugar – then baking it in a spring form pan – is a genius in my culinary book. But who did come up with the idea?

I’ve heard tell that the cheesecake, in its most literal meaning, was originated in Ancient Greece as it was served to Olympic athletes. More recent history records recipes for cakes made with cottage cheese that were brought to this country by immigrants. However, it seems that the original cream cheese version was invented by Arnold Reuben, owner of the Turf Restaurant in New York City. Good job, Arnold.

Now, I know there are several kinds of cheesecake. While growing up, my parents were always entertaining guests for dinner. Inevitably, someone would stop by a local bakery and bring a cheesecake for dessert. You remember – the one’s that came in the white boxes tied with string? There was something not quite right about those cheesecakes. Sort of fluffy and dry and strangely garnished with yellow cake crumbs. Not my cup of tea. The real deal, as far as this guy is concerned, is the thick, dense, creamy cheesecake that put Junior’s here in New York City on the map. My Aunt Ann somehow procured their recipe, and began bringing it to family functions – on demand. And it’s remained the only kind of American cheesecake for me ever since.

I say American cheesecake, because being the Italian that I am, I must mention our take on this bit of heaven. These are made with ricotta cheese and often flavored with citrus. I must say, the Italian cheesecake is truly sublime. Try it with a double espresso. You won’t be disappointed.

So, variations on the theme? There are many. Some prefer their cheesecake smothered with strawberries, cherries, blueberries or any other fruit. I can do that. Others desire it marbled with velvety chocolate. Works for me. Thanksgiving dessert tables offer pumpkin cheesecake, boasting those warm holiday spices. I look forward to it every year. As for the crust – traditional or graham cracker both work. I’m happy just as long as I’m served a large wedge.

I’ve been know to brulee my cheesecake. Just a sprinkling of sugar and a gentle torching do the trick. Sometimes I add a sweet liqueur, such as Gran Marnier, to the mix. Just a little bit goes a long way. I’ve also pulled all the stops and fried my cheesecake. Just be sure that it’s really cold. Then cut some small squares, dip them in batter, fry until golden and serve with whipped cream. Hey, if they can do it with Twinkies and Oreos, I can do it with cheesecake.

On a diet? Me too. But look at it this way. Salads and grilled fish or chicken all week will leave plenty of room for cheesecake on the weekends. American or Italian style, just one slice will make life worth living. That’s why it was invented.

The Ribaudo Group

Taking It on the Lamb

May 6, 2011

Some say lamb is an acquired taste. For me, it’s a necessity. There’s something so robust and earthy about the flavor and aroma – a quality that makes it a truly satisfying meal for me. And although I partake of it all year long, there’s really no more perfect time to enjoy the best of spring lamb than right now.

When I was just a lad, I would give a big cheer when lamb was on the menu. My grandmother, as most Italian women, included it in her Sunday dinner repertoire. It usually arrived at the table in the form of a leg of lamb. Grandma would insert deep knife cuts all over the meaty portions of the leg, and stuff the holes with garlic, flat leaf parsley and sometimes chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. After anointing the lamb with extra virgin olive oil and a generous seasoning of salt and ground black pepper, she would roast it in the oven. My goodness, that was just perfect. If I recall correctly, she also surrounded the roast with potatoes and onions, which absorbed the juices and were just heaven.

That was my father’s mother, Santina. My mother’s mother, Caterina, was a big proponent of lamb as well. She always prepared dinner for us on Wednesdays. You see, my Mom worked and her mother came midweek to help out. Many of those glorious Wednesday evening meals included lamb chops in vermouth. Grandma would sear the lamb in hot oil, then sauté onions and garlic in the left over brown bits at the bottom of the pan. In went lots of vermouth to deglaze and then the chops were returned to pan. She covered that simmering gorgeousness and braised it until the meat was falling off the bone. Served with white rice, I just can’t express how wonderful that dish was. You must try it.

Now, I’ve described two very simple recipes that come from my youth. Lamb, however, is bold enough to stand up against more elaborate preparations. You’ll discover it in many a Middle Eastern dish, complemented by lots of cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin and coriander. Indian and African cuisine as well. What I love about lamb in these gastronomic traditions is that you never lose the flavor of the meat. With all the spicy rubs and even curry sauces, you still taste lamb. Can’t say that about chicken. Even beef. No, lamb was made for these heady stew, kebab and meatball recipes.

Lamb makes for sort of a regal feast as well. Take the baby lamb chop. You’ll find it simply grilled or broiled at many a swanky cocktail party. A perfectly gentile finger food, I must say. Of course, there’s also the royal crown roast of lamb – ends frenched please! When I’m cooking to impress, I make it the centerpiece of the meal. I stuff the cavity with a mint scented rice pilaf. I don’t particularly care for mint jelly, though. Reminds me of chewing gum. But, hey, I place it on the table anyway. So many of my guests would be disappointed if I didn’t.

By the way, have you ever tried a lamb hamburger? Or perhaps a lamb meatloaf? Not as lofty as some of the above mentioned, but still good eats. This Italian even includes lamb chops with the meatballs and pork ribs in his meat sauce. Gives Sunday pasta extra depth, my aunt always said.

With Easter fast approaching for so many of us, think about serving a leg of lamb roasted with rosemary and garlic. Or braised lamb shanks. Place it next to the baked ham, and see which goes faster. I’m taking bets on the lamb.

The Ribaudo Group

The Meatless Friday

May 6, 2011

Growing up Roman Catholic, meatless meals on Fridays were a way of life for my family. No bacon in the morning, no ham sandwiches for lunch, and definitely no steak for dinner. At one point, the rules changed and we were only required to abstain from meat on Fridays during Lent. As I child and even as a teenager, I found that rather challenging. As an adult, though, my culinary knowledge increased and I discovered that the meatless possibilities were truly endless.

Mom always served us fish during our Lenten observances. This was great for me, since I loved seafood. Still do. Nevertheless, in my home we don’t limit these Fridays to fish alone. I find that meatless can mean any number of delicious foods. For instance, eggs. Now, I’m not talking breakfast here. I’m referring to something on the order of a delicious frittata or a rich quiche, boasting everything from fresh veggies and herbs to creamy cheeses. A light salad and a glass of wine make either a completely satisfying meal.

Pasta is another great option. After all, who doesn’t love it? The great thing about pasta is that it serves as a base to many a fantastic meal. Add a protein such as beans and you have pasta faggioli, a well balanced repast. Combine any number of fresh veggies sautéed in garlic and oil – or butter if you’re feeling indulgent – and in no time it’s pasta primavera. Cheesy gnocchi anyone? Who could resist it?

OK, I know, this Italian guy just listed three Italian favorites as pasta choices. Well, what about Asian noodle dishes? That’s still pasta in my gastronomy book. Combined with fresh veggies and tofu and served with a side of steaming miso, it’s the stuff culinary memories are made of. I should note here that there are meatless versions of chicken and beef, made of tofu, that are amazingly similar to the real thing. Add these to your Asian noodle recipes as well. I promise, you won’t be cheating!

Now, if you’re looking to keep it light and meatless, don’t underestimate a good salad. As we discussed a few blogs ago, a fresh salad can serve as a totally fulfilling dinner. It merits repeating here. Just add your favorite cheeses, mixed nuts – even beans – and there you go, dinner is served. Don’t forget the crusty bread and yes, a glass of good wine. Vegetable soups can also serve as a lighter supper option. I like to puree them, so they give the appearance of richness without the added fat of butter or cream. Or add barely to thicken the mix. Really sticks to your ribs.

Now, of course, I don’t eliminate fish from my Lenten Fridays. Besides loving the way it tastes, most varieties are light and always a good source of protein. Broiled, baked or poached salmon is definitely on my Lenten menu roster. Filet of sole, sprinkled with a bit of Italian breadcrumb and baked with a drizzling of olive oil is my childhood favorite. A variety of seafood swimming in a white wine accented marinara makes for some mighty good eats as well. Again, the possibilities are virtually limitless.

So, you see, anyone can do it. Abstain from meat on Fridays during Lent, that is. It’s a tradition that I cherish, handed down to me from generations of good cooks. And while pizza or a cheese sandwich would suffice, why not brighten things up a bit? Be inventive, and remember, it’s only for forty days. When Easter arrives, there’s a beautiful leg of lamb waiting for you. But that’s a whole other blog.

The Ribaudo Group

Fit for a Brit

May 6, 2011

Fit for a Brit

I believe British foods receive a bad rap. All that talk of bland, boring and boiled. Nonsense! Oh sure, the taste traditions of England don’t sport chiles and oregano, I’ll grant you that. But variety is truly the spice of this guy’s life. I like balance. So British classics definitely hold a place in high regard on my “favorite things to eat” list.

You’re not going to believe this, but Mom always prepared a British inspired meal on New Year’s Day. I know, what does a Brooklyn Italian woman know of such things? Well, she held that after the garlicky seafood dishes of Christmas Eve and the saucy lasagne of Christmas Day – not to mention the repeat of spicy seafood on New Year’s Eve – we needed a break. Relief, as she put it, from the gastronomic revelry and much consumed antacids associated with our Italian holiday repasts. She turned to the Brits.

Mom began the meal with a consommé. Not necessarily British, but she felt it was a fine base. She then proceeded with a beautiful Beef Wellington. For those not familiar with this dish, it consists of a tender filet steak, coated in duxelles (chopped mushrooms and herbs, lightly sautéed) and then wrapped in a flaky puff pastry. To accompany the Beef Wellington, she treated us to a Yorkshire Pudding. A thin flour, egg, butter and milk batter was poured into a greased pan and then baked. She often added to the batter some of the drippings that remained in the pan after searing the beef fillet for the Wellington. Scrumptious. Buttered carrots, steamed broccoli and a fresh salad also adorned the table. A truly wonderful meal, and very British.

Mom had something there. So I took it a step further and began to incorporate British favorites in my culinary adventures all year long. For instance, Shepard’s Pie. This is a hearty casserole lined with cooked chopped beef or lamb and any choice of vegetables, which is then topped with buttery mashed potatoes and baked. I mean, how could you go wrong with that? Or Fish and Chips – battered cod that’s deep-fried until golden and served with steak-cut, french fried potatoes. I add a brown beer to the batter for authenticity. Of course, I never serve a tartar sauce alongside. I keep it traditional with a sprinkling of quality malt vinegar, just as the Brits have been doing for decades.

You must also try Bangers and Mash – or pan-seared sausages placed over mashed potatoes and ladled with onion gravy. Simple and savory! I’ve also been known to serve unsuspecting guests a hearty Steak and Kidney Pie. Yes…diced beef, kidney and onion cooked in brown gravy and covered in a nice crust. Try it. You won’t be disappointed. And every once in a while my breakfast buffet will include Kippers and Eggs. Don’t be alarmed. A kipper is simply herring that has been salted and cold smoked. A nice alternative to smoked salmon. Reminds me of the breakfasts served to estate guests in those old British mystery novels.

So you see, British food isn’t boring at all. Please purchase a good cookbook devoted to the topic – you’ll love the “High Tea” treats. That reminds me. My kettle is boiling and my crumpets are done…have to dash!

The Ribaudo Group

Chocolate Reveries

February 26, 2011

Some of my fondest gastronomic memories involve chocolate. I’d venture to guess that I’m not alone here. What is it about chocolate that causes our hearts to skip a beat when it’s presented to us in its many sumptuous forms? Nay…even the thought of chocolate for some can trigger and inner longing that may lead to heady, euphoric ecstasy – causing faintness of breath! OK, maybe I exaggerate, as I am wont to do. (After all, I am Italian. It’s genetic.) The point is chocolate to most of us is a luxury we cannot do without. I’m in that league.

When I was a child, my grandmother often made me chocolate sandwiches. Yes, you read correctly. She’d take crusty Italian bread, toast it in the oven, and then sandwich a chocolate bar in between the slices. She’d press it with her hands, and the heat from the toasted bread sufficiently softened the chocolate bar to a silky consistency. I was in heaven. And I wanted more of it. She also prepared something called cuccia for me on St. Lucy’s Day (December 13th). This was a pudding made from cooked wheat berries, milk, candied fruit and chocolate. Oh yes, it was as good as it sounds. There were usually lots of wheat berries left over. These were served to me the rest of the week for breakfast, swimming in warm chocolate milk. Beats cold cereal any day. Of course, I was often treated to the chocolate candies, cakes and brownies every kid begs for at the supermarket. What can I say…they spoiled me!

At Easter…well, is there anything more heartwarming than a chocolate bunny? My Mom procured the best, of course, from a chocolatier shoppe on 86th Street in Brooklyn. The ears were solid, and so they were my preference. And let’s not forget the chocolate drives at school. My aunts and uncles would buy boxes of those bars from me, only to hand them right back for my sister and I to enjoy. I especially loved the smell that wafted from the boxes as I opened them. Those bars of chocolate were ridiculously delicious – melt-in-your-mouth velvetiness and studded with tons of roasted almonds to boot. Amazing!

So you see, I was predestined to love chocolate. Naturally, as my culinary tastes grew more sophisticated, I searched for even more heightened chocolate experiences. Not hard to find. Every fine restaurant has at least two chocolate creations on the dessert menu. My first foray into that world began with chocolate mousse. It was outstanding. Then I was enamored by the molten chocolate cake. Who could resist that hot chocolate lava oozing from a petite cake. Looks innocent until your fork breaks the crust. Then watch out! Black Forest Cake also became an uncontrollable passion for me. After all, chocolate and cherries were destined to fall in love.

And so it goes. Double, triple, quadruple chocolate cakes and pastries…love them all. Hot or cold chocolate puddings…bring them on. Chocolate covered donuts…hot fudge sundaes…chocolate chip cookies…chocolate dipped strawberries…chocolate liqueurs. Can’t get enough of them. Extravagant? By all means. I mean, we must live to eat. That’s my motto.

Want someone to fall in love with you? Bake something chocolaty for them. If the recipe calls for hard baker’s chocolate, be sure to melt it in a double boiler. Easy. Just place a mixing bowl over simmering water, and stir continuously until the desired consistency is achieved. Then you’re good to go with whatever recipe you have on hand. Watch out though; it’s intoxicating. The person you serve it to might take this as a proposal of marriage. The rest is up to you.

The Ribaudo Group

The Mexican You Thought You Knew

February 15, 2011

Mexican food always tasted the same to me. I was bored with it. Then I visited Mexico several times and was introduced to authentic Mexican cuisine – a far cry from the fare offered at stateside burrito and taco establishments. I fell in love with it. But vacations do end and once again I’d be faced with Americanized versions of a cuisine that I eventually gave up on. That is until I stepped into Jalapeño restaurant in New York City. That was an aha moment for me. A rediscovery of the taste traditions of a Mexico I had explored several years ago and with which I became so enamored. What a joy!

What I love about Jalapeño is the total attention to detail. Oh, not just the service and the plating, which are exquisite. I’m talking about the authenticity of the food. Each and every dish is based on the chef’s family recipes – her grandmother’s to be precise. And you can taste it in such diverse classics as Pulpo a la Plancha, a sautéed octopus and house-made chorizo appetizer in a delicate wine sauce. Or Camerones de Mojo de Ajo, a generous entrée of jumbo shrimp in a gorgeous garlic sauce that’s served with white rice and a grilled plantain. Delectable, I tell you! Or if you’re really feeling adventurous, you can pre-order a marinated suckling pig roasted to sheer perfection. Very impressive. They even elevate the Chile Relleno, one of my favorites, to a new level of culinary art. Imagine a plump, grilled poblano pepper filled with fresh Mexican cheese, calabacita ragu, mushrooms and pumpkin seeds and placed over a savory tomato sauce. Not what you’re used to, right?

Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Why are you tempting me? I can’t visit Jalapeño because I don’t live in New York.” Well, true Mexican cuisine is not a mystery to prepare at home. You can do it easily. It all starts with an authentic recipe. And like so many successful culinary endeavors, it’s also about the finest ingredients. Start out with the freshest and your recipes are half way there.

When it comes to Mexican, one is bombarded with shelf after shelf of jarred sauces and pre-made offerings in supermarkets. Buyers beware! They’re not always what I would call bona fide Mexican. And as my friend Phyllis Kirigan has said to me countless times, “Why waste your money on that packaged stuff when you can easily prepare the real thing with fresh ingredients for less?” She’s right. The end result is always better. You can find so many of the components that make Mexican what it should be in your supermarket or at local Latino markets. Fresh chiles, avocados, tomatoes, plantains, cactus – it’s all there. Dried goods such as beans, rice, pumpkin seeds, spices and unsweetened cocoa are also easy to locate. Or you can always procure your ingredients online.

So the next time you’re thinking about a quick stop at a roadside joint for fast food Mexican, think again. Get yourself a good Mexican recipe, pick up some fresh ingredients, and have a fiesta at home. Or if you’re in New York, check out Jalapeño restaurant (www.jalapenonyc.com). It’s located two blocks from my apartment. Give me a day or two advanced notice, and I’ll meet you there. Buen provecho!

The Ribaudo Group

Salad Days Are Here Again…

February 15, 2011

I’ve had a great time these last few months. I mean, I really love the Holidays. So many of my favorite foods – in such quantities – with ample time to take it all in. And January, well, it’s heavy football season. The scrumptious snacks and easy access finger foods abound. I must admit, though, that I’ve put on a few pounds since November. I always do. So while most are making diet resolutions on New Year’s Day, I wait until the Big Game Day is over. Then I take stock of the situation. What can I do to eat more balanced meals? I’m not a “diet” kind of guy; however, I do try to offset weekend splurges with some modicum of weekday sanity. That’s when I turn to salads.

The salad is a wonderful thing. It offers lots of roughage and nutrition, can be very filling yet lighter in calories, and often serves as an extremely versatile kind of entrée. Yes, the basic lettuce, tomato and some sort of dressing can get old fast. But who needs to stop there? Like so many an adaptable dish, the salad can be built upon in numberless ways to become a fully satisfying meal. That makes it multitalented in my book.

When contemplating a salad entrée, I like to begin with a variety of greens. I’m not much of an Iceberg fan, so I usually end up with some combination of crisp Romaine hearts, tender Butter lettuce, fanciful Mesclun and a touch of Arugula for a spicy note. To that I’m wont to include some fresh veggies. Carrots, celery, tomatoes, radishes, white mushrooms, olives and red onions are almost always present. Lots of fresh basil and Italian flat leaf parsley as well. When vegetables such as asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower and the like are in my recipe, I blanch them first. That’s just my taste. I’m not big on crudités as a rule.

The most obvious way to enhance a wholesome salad meal is to adorn it with low fat protein. Grilled chicken breast, lean beef and salmon or tuna…all notable, healthful additions. Of course, we’re grilling here, so besides a flavorful marinade, there’s not much fat going on. Beans are also a nice means of adding good for you protein to salads. So are low fat cheeses. I particularly like a sharp feta or mellow mozzarella. I stay away from the yellow-orange cheeses. They sort of melt in the dressings. Not for me!

As for dressings, you’re only limited to your imagination. Balsamic vinaigrettes always work. I use plenty of fresh basil here. Sometimes I opt for a simple whisking of lemon and oil, perhaps with a touch of oregano. Oh, of course I adore the creamy varieties. But we’re taking a lighter approach now. If your heart is set on a creamy dressing, look for recipes that use lower fat ingredients, such as low fat buttermilk or sour cream, as well as a light mayo. If you opt for jarred, check the ingredients. Low fat dressings usually contain more sugar. That defeats the purpose.

When putting my salad together, I sometimes prefer the proteins to be warm, right off the grill. This is especially so when I’m doing an Asian beef salad. The greens become slightly wilted, but in a good way. Something about it that turns by my taste buds on. Warm dressings achieve the same effect. Try it sometime.

I should note here that not all my salad favorites contain lettuce greens. I’m nuts for bean salads. As an Italian, I also grew up with tomato salad as a staple. Mom took garden ripe tomatoes, sliced them and some fresh red onion, added fresh basil and tossed with extra virgin olive oil. That was it. But believe me, nothing beat it.

I’m not suggesting a salad for every meal, of course. Variety is the spice of life, as they say. I’m talking balance. A delectable salad entrée at least two nights a week, along with thoughtful intake of calories the rest of the week, can help take the edge off your appetite for heavier foods. And it won’t hurt a bit, I promise.

The Ribaudo Group


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